Why Your Dog Can’t Find That Liver-Shot Deer — And How to Train So It Can

Why Your Dog Can’t Find That Liver-Shot Deer — And How to Train So It Can


So many trackers call us this time of year, right in the heart of tracking season, with the same problem: “My dog can’t find a liver-shot deer!”
This is a situation that catches new trackers and inexperienced dogs off guard, and it ends with a very dead deer left in the woods to be found later. As a tracker providing professional-level services, you need to know how to train for this situation, how to use every tool available in the field, and how to lean on some dead reckoning to put your hands on a liver-shot deer.
Back Up to Training
First we need to back up to training. The big trend in tracking dog training right now is using a deer hoof, hoof shoes, or a hoof stick to train. That’s great. It works. But not talking about the shortfalls of that system isn’t fair to a new pup owner.
Growing up in the mountains of West Virginia, we raised versatile dogs and called them “meat dogs.” They did exactly that — they hunted, tracked, treed, and retrieved. Instead of the curs and hounds of my childhood, we now raise Jagdterriers, GWPs (heavy VDD lineage), and European-line GSPs for these jobs. We instill tracking into their early life and concentrate on it hard for the first several months.
We profile train. Blood, interdigital, gut and intestinal scent, and drags before four months old, graduating to bumps from legs and hide so we get hair and dander on the trail. This system works for us. Bucks on trucks and testing accomplishments tell the story.
The Theory Behind a Liver Hit
Here’s what’s happening with a liver-shot whitetail.
The deer is shot. It walks or slow-shuffles off, leaving a track of interdigital scent. A liver-hit deer will typically cover 100–300 yards and bed. If it’s a through-and-through liver hit, the pain threshold drops once the deer beds, and the “stress pheromone” level drops with it as the animal calms and its body starts to shut down.
If the hunter is patient, the deer quietly passes in that bed. If the hunter is not patient and bumps the deer, it jumps and runs. On a hard, ground-covering run, the deer can cover a lot of ground in a short time without dispersing much interdigital stress pheromones . Then, as it keeps moving, its system starts to register stress again and resumes releasing pheromones.
So you arrive on scene with your dog. Pup takes the track from impact, works to the bed — and then stops, circles, and looks confused. What do you do?
Unfortunately, we’ve tracked behind several handlers who just went home at this point, with the deer dead only a few hundred yards away.
Handling It in the Field
Here are a couple of ways to work through it.
If the hunter saw the deer exit and can give you a direction, but the dog won’t pick the track up out of the bed: pull up your mapping app (we use Spartan Forge) and pin the bed. Use the distance feature to draw a 600-yard line in the direction of travel and pin the far end.
Now start the dog up that line — but do not give the “track it” command, because at this point you aren’t tracking. You’re going to oscillate in an “S” pattern along the line of travel. This is important: you must read your dog. You’re watching for pup to pick the track back up. Let the “S” get wider as you push out that 600-yard line. When pup locks on, go to the deer.
If the hunter can’t give you a direction — sometimes from predator interference or a hunter bump — you have two options. You can work an ever-increasing circle from the bed, which wears you and your dog out fast, or you can work the “four corners” pattern.
Stand at the bed and face north. On your mapping app, draw a 1,200-yard total line with the bed dead center, running north to south. Do the same east to west. Read the topography, and using common sense and dead reckoning, zig-zag the quadrant that makes the most sense. If you don’t pick anything up, move to the next quadrant, and so on.
How We Train for It
We set our mock tracks up to teach exactly this scenario.
We start with interdigital — either Tracker’s ID or a good hoof — and lay an interdigital track with minimal blood out to a bed at the 300-yard mark. Out of the bed, we switch to Tracker’s IV cut way back to micro-dot blood level, and we completely cut out the interdigital.
We also don’t start the bloodline right at the bed. I like to step off 15–20 yards in the new direction before the first drops hit the ground. That makes pup work out of the bed to find the line. We then run 150 yards in the new direction before starting the interdigital again, and we finish on a target a total of 300 yards from the bed.
This teaches the dog to profile — not just follow one scent.
If you single-scent train, it’s going to take you several liver bumps, and a lot of your own help, to get your dog to “learn” how to track and find the most difficult of all tracks.

Back to blog

Leave a comment